Thursday, July 17, 2014

Pretty picture: Ledienara Controversy

Unexpectedly, I've taken photos of both parents of this particular flower, at previous orchid shows. The flowers resemble their seed parent much more than their pollen parent.

I would also sort of like to know how this one got the name "Controversy," but I couldn't find a story with some light googling, and I didn't care enough to do heavy googling.


Ledienara Controversy = Caulaelia Snowflake [previously] x Cattlianthe Trick or Treat [previously] (Ref.)


Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Unfinished business: Amorphophallus

I had what seemed like a pretty good idea for staking --


which was to use the hollow foam insulation tubes people use to insulate pipes as my stakes. They're strong enough to hold plants up in reasonable amounts of wind but flexible enough not to introduce new kinks; they're slit down one side, making it possible to slip one on around the petioles without further damaging it (though that did take two people to do); and they're fairly cheap.

Unfortunately, it appears that this idea came too late to be helpful. The A. bulbifer appears to be producing a new bulb, but its petiole was pretty badly damaged and the leaf is severely wilted (worse now than in the pictures), and it's not clear whether it's going to be able to finish making the bulb before the leaf dies.


The A. konjac was also more badly damaged than I had initially thought, and I suppose the process of wrestling it into the insulation tube probably damaged it further even though we were trying to be careful. The wind has also blown hard enough to shove the petiole through the slit in the insulation a few times. (I should have taped it up once we got the insulation on; I didn't think the wind would be strong enough to push it through.) So it's probably just dead, and the plant will have to carry on through the three bulblets it produced this year. Which is not so bad, as consequences go. I suppose I've learned a valuable lesson about putting Amorphophallus outside as soon as it starts to sprout.


Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Walkaways Part 19

Haven't done one of these posts in a long time, because for the most part, I don't plant-shop anymore. Consequently, this list is 1) short, and 2) old. But I figure I should do something with these photos if I'm going to, and they're all interesting to some degree or another, so here we are.

The "most part" link above goes to a post about buying a Huernia and Mangave at Reha's Greenhouses in Wellman, IA on April 7; they also had a noteworthy Gasteria, G. minima variegata:


Why didn't I buy it, too? I don't know. I like Gasterias, but I haven't had great luck with them overall. (Though the seedlings are still doing okay, thanks for asking.) I think it's mostly an overwatering issue.

The other two plants are unusual color/size versions of perfectly ordinary plants, witnessed at Frontier Garden Center (Cedar Rapids, IA) on May 16; unfortunately, Frontier's greenhouse and the time of day combined to turn all the photos orange. I have attempted to correct for this, but I wasn't wholly successful.

The first plant was, I think, a new variety of Dracaena reflexa, though it's possible that it's Dracaena deremensis, and it hardly matters since D. deremensis is officially D. fragrans, so I think we should just all be happy that it's still classifiable as a Dracaena and make a jump to the next paragraph before this one explodes into a fireball --

Whatever species it is, I haven't seen this variety before, and the tag didn't give a variety name. The leaves were shorter than D. deremensis 'Warneckei,' which it otherwise resembles, but not quite as short as D. reflexa leaves usually are, and I've never seen a D. reflexa with this coloration.



I didn't even recognize the last one at first, but I figured it out as soon as I happened to brush along the side of a leaf -- it's my good friend Yucca guatemalensis. The biggest one I have ever seen, to boot. (My best guess from memory and the photo is that it was about 4 feet / 1.2 m in diameter, maybe a little wider near the top.)


I'm not 100% sure that it's a variety I haven't seen before -- I do have a streaky gray cultivar here, the oldest of my plant acquisitions, but the color on the plant at Frontier was a lot more consistent than my plants, with a single, mostly uniform light stripe taking up the middle 50% or so of the leaf. At one time, I would have bought this without blinking an eye (it was even fairly cheap -- I can't read the tag from the photo, but I think it was somewhere between $30 and $40), but it was so huge, and I know I don't have room for a plant this size, so I had to leave it.


Monday, July 14, 2014

Well It's About Damn Time

Previously:
Initial bud
Something unknown happens and all is ruined
The plant tries again

And now we have actual flowers. Two so far (though both of the below photos are of the same one, the first one, because I didn't think I could trust that the flower would stay put if I waited to take a picture of it), with three developing buds.


Since the plant was purchased in March 2009, that means the time to rebloom was 5 1/3 years. Not really worth the wait, but I suppose now that it's produced flowers, I'm stuck with it forever because who knows, it might bloom again at any moment, and how could I throw it out if it might still bloom, and etc. You know how that whole thought process goes.


The pictures exaggerate the veining; that's much more difficult to see in person. It also seems a little darker in person than the photos make it out to be, which is possibly a consequence of that whole problem cameras have with accurate replication of purples.


Sunday, July 13, 2014

Pretty pictures: Portulaca grandiflora

I am firmly convinced that Portulaca grandiflora is the best blooming annual of all time, period, full stop, and nothing you could do or say could ever convince me otherwise. So don't even try. And yes, I'm including Gazanias in that assessment. Gazanias wish they could be as cool as Portulaca.


I neglected to start them indoors, so the first blooms didn't appear until late June; this was the very first, on June 24, and includes a bonus fly of some kind:


There has been a satisfyingly large number of orange blooms:


I've caught a glimpse of a single (so far) green metallic bee again this year, unlike last year:


as well as a handful of other pollinators, mostly the tiny black bees from this post, though I didn't get any pictures of those.

We also have, for the first time, some Portulaca growing around the oak trees in the front yard (on purpose), which include this pink-on-pink speckled bloom:


I'm skipping the marigolds (Tagetes) this year, for a number of reasons.


The Tagetes crowded out the Portulaca by the end of the year, attracted lots of whiteflies, and although they bloomed constantly, I don't like the blooms as well. Granted, I've seen lots of tiny grasshoppers in the bed, which I don't know for sure that that's not related to the Portulacas.

Grasshoppers is the best explanation I have for what happened to this one, though I admit that I don't know for sure. . . .


The bloom colors are a lot more varied than Tagetes, if nothing else.




Oh, and yeah -- a few pictures up, that's a red clover (Trifolium pratense) in the bed with them. (One at the front on the right, and another in the back left corner.) It also gets big and sort of crowds out the Portulacas, and attracts pests (rabbits?), and the color doesn't really go with the Portulacas, but I've always kind of admired T. pratense, so when I saw a couple coming up at the beginning of the spring, I thought why not, what could it hurt, and let them grow. It's possible that I'll come to regret this, as I eventually regretted letting the Oenothera biennis stay, three years ago. But it's okay for now. The clover even turns out to be mildly fragrant, which I didn't realize. (One possible shortcoming of Portulaca is their lack of fragrance.)


In any case, I feel like I only have just so much energy to devote to outdoor plants, and this bed is a good size for me to keep weeded and stuff. Also Portulaca won't all collapse the first time it gets dry, it's happy to bloom continuously for about four or five months, and it self-sows even when I don't go to the trouble of gathering the seeds.


Though obviously I'm gonna gather the seeds.


In conclusion, Portulaca is a land of contrasts the best.


Saturday, July 12, 2014

Saturday morning Sheba picture


It's been a while since anything particularly noteworthy happened with Sheba. Lots of shedding, I suppose, but otherwise everything's fine. And it's not like the shedding ever actually stops; it's just been more intense lately.


Friday, July 11, 2014

Pretty picture: Paphiopedilum Voodoo Kitty

The best thing about these dark Paphiopedilum hybrids is the way they evoke the xenomorph queen from the Alien movies. This is probably not what everybody gets out of looking at paphs, I suppose, but I like it.


Paphiopedilum Voodoo Kitty = Paphiopedilum Alma Gevaert x Paphiopedilum Voodoo Magic (Ref.)

(And speaking of Alien: is it worth checking Prometheus out of the library? The reviews for it were kind of all over the place.)


Thursday, July 10, 2014

Product Review: Ultimate Plant Cage, Ultimate Plant Clips, Ultimate Plant Stakes

DISCLOSURE: I was provided with the following products for review:
Ultimate Plant Cage
Ultimate Plant Clips
Ultimate Plant Stakes
No other compensation was given. My understanding was that I was to provide a review of the stakes whether I liked them or not, but that I didn't necessarily have to acknowledge the clips and cage, which were sent along with the stakes. Though I'm acknowledging them anyway, because why the hell not.

The first thing to note is that the company that sells these products, Global Garden Friends, was unusually pleasant to communicate with, both when we were first discussing whether or not I would review their products, and later on when I had questions about the products while trying to draft the review. And that even remained the case when I delayed the review over and over for various reasons. This is probably not the sort of thing that's going to matter to you much as a consumer, but it was so novel to have a company treat me somewhat like a person that it seemed worth bringing up.

So here are my experiences with the three products I tried:


Ultimate Plant Cage

The cage didn't work particularly well for me, for reasons that I think are not the fault of the product. I only had one plant that I needed caged, a Monstera deliciosa, and it was already well-established, large, heavy, and contorted. (The reason I needed a cage was because it had gotten so large that it was no longer possible to do much of anything with it, including moving it to the tub to water, so sprawly and awkward it had become.) This is how it's supposed to work:


Which seems nice and straightforward, but I couldn't even get the base assembled around the bottom of the plant, because of the tangle of stems and aerial roots and so forth. The pot was not much larger than the ring in the first place, so I was trying to gather up the stems in the middle and build the ring around them, but when I finished building the ring and released the plant to move on to the next stage of the assembly process, the weight of the stems pulled the ring apart. This happened over and over until I gave up.

So I don't feel like I can fairly evaluate the cage. This isn't the cage's fault; it's the plant's fault, for being so heavy, and having already grown without a support for so long. I will likely have to restart the Monstera in question from cuttings soon, so if/when this happens, I'll start it in the cage and see how much better that works. So there may be a follow-up review at some point in the next year.


Ultimate Plant Clips

I had some troubles with these too, some of them the fault of the product and some not. There is an upper limit to how large of a stem they'll hold. If you attempt something bigger in diameter than that,1 the clips won't close around the stem. Or they'll close but then pop back open after a couple seconds. Aside from the size limitations, they work fine, and as the website notes, they can be attached one-handed, while you use your other hand to hold things in the right position or whatever.

I still wouldn't buy these myself, mostly because of the cost. You can get 20 clips for $5, which doesn't sound bad, but I can get a whole skein of acrylic yarn for $3, which is enough to tie stems to objects all day long and still have enough yarn left over to knit six pairs of baby booties. There's nothing wrong with the clips, and if you like the look of them better than yarn then hey, go for it, but the product is solving problems that I don't actually have.


Ultimate Plant Stakes

On the other hand: stakes. I have problems with plants leaning. Sometimes that's because plants aren't growing that well, leading to weak stems, phototropism, and the like. Sometimes it's because they're growing too well, and a small, weak base is trying to support a large, heavy top. Some plants just want to lean over after they grow for a while, even if everything's perfect. So stakes are a thing that I sometimes need and use, and I've tried a lot of different things.

With that said, the bar is set pretty low on what an object needs to do in order to function as a plant stake. Mostly it just needs to be capable of verticality and strong enough not to bend under the weight of the plant. So how impressive is it, really, if a product can stand upright without bending? Not very. And yet, some things I've tried in the past haven't been up to the challenge.

Wood core with coconut fiber (?) wrapped around it, for plants that climb: basically worthless. Maybe worse than worthless.2
Wooden dowels: good, even if they do eventually rot.
Acrylic rods collected from the garbage of a former employer: never quite big and sturdy enough to support anything that actually needed support.3 A thicker-diameter rod would probably have worked fine, but I'd guess it would be unnecessarily expensive. Plus acrylic scratches really easily, so it wouldn't look transparent and shiny for very long.
Bamboo: depends on the diameter. Thick ones work well, thin ones don't.4 The thin greenish-blue dyed ones are awful and I have no idea how the companies producing and selling them stay in business.
Thin metal rod of unknown origin which is also somehow green: better than nothing, but too short for most of the plants that need support.

Wood dowels and (thick) bamboo are perfectly fine, and sometimes even blend in with the real stem, for woody plants like Coffea or Murraya. Wood and bamboo eventually rot, though usually by the time that happens, either the plant has become self-supporting and it doesn't matter that the stake has rotted, or it's time to move the plant to a bigger pot anyway, so you may as well change the stake too. That said, wooden dowels are pretty expensive to be using as stakes, and either you have to choose one that's really tall and let the plant catch up, or choose one that's the same height as the plant and let the plant overrun it. This is not, like, Hitler bad, or even root mealybug bad, but I've usually chosen the first option and then silently resented the bare top of the stake until the plant caught up or the stake needed replacing. So my favorite part about the Ultimate Plant Stakes is how easily their height can be adjusted.

The Ultimate Plant Stakes improve on other things I've tried in other ways: you should only have to buy them once, unlike wood or bamboo, they don't break or bend, and the price is in the same ballpark as comparable products like bamboo stakes and wood dowels, so I feel comfortable endorsing the product. They definitely work well for my Dracaena 'Limelight,'

The angle hides the lowest 3/4 of each stake somewhat, but they're there.


and although they don't get the Asplundia 'Jungle Drum' completely vertical, they're more effective than anything else I've tried.5

A single stake, as packaged, is only useful for plants with stems from about 12 to 48 inches (30-122 cm) tall. Shorter than 12 inches and the stakes are overkill; taller than 48 inches and the top of the plant remains free to flop about. The stakes come in packages of six, though, and it's possible to use more than one stake at a time to get something taller than that. Each stake consists of an outer tube, an inner stake, and a white plastic cap. If you remove the cap and stagger the outer tubes and inner stakes, you can go higher than that. I don't know how much higher you can usefully go, but I managed to stake the length of my 60-inch (152 cm) tall Ficus lyrata by using three stakes together, so the useful range is at least 60 inches.6

The stake is mostly not visible here either, but you can see the bottom fifth of it to the right of the stems.

So to summarize:

Ultimate Plant Cage: testing incomplete, due to lack of fair test cases.
Ultimate Plant Clips: I don't object to them, but I don't really see the point.
Ultimate Plant Stakes: endorsed, and even kind of enthusiastic about, for plants within the useful height range.

-

1 The company's site says the clips will hold stems up to 1/2 inch in diameter, but I found the effective maximum stem diameter was a little bigger than that, about 3/4 inch (1.9 cm), when used along with the Ultimate Plant Stakes. This is large enough for most vining plants (though, again, if your problem is a Monstera then you're out of luck), but may or may not be adequate for upright woody plants like Dracaena, Yucca, older Ficuses, Asplundia, Dieffenbachia, etc. So measure the diameter of the stems first.
I tried, just for shiggles, to see whether it was possible to link multiple clips together to make a multi-clip with a larger diameter, but that didn't work.
It's probably worth pointing out that this is a good thing in some respects -- you don't have to worry about the clip strangling a stem as it grows, because the clip will pop open once the stem gets big enough to pop it. I don't know how often that problem actually arises, but I'm willing to accept this as a good quality for plant clips to have because the website says it is.
2 I've used those before with Monstera deliciosa, and I think maybe also Syngonium podophyllum. Coir doesn't actually hold water for shit when it's in a thin layer around a wood core, so the roots don't anchor themselves in it, and the stakes I've used had short, wide bases and were easily pulled over when I tied the plant to them. So I'm not a fan. I've seen similar stakes that had sort of a plastic mesh over a layer of sphagnum, with a solid (wood? plastic?) core at the center of that: it seems like those might be more effective for clinging aerial roots to use as support, but I've never actually tried one. And they seemed to have the same problem with bases. Nothing is going to hold up a heavy vining plant unless you can anchor it solidly in the soil.
3 They make very good dibblers, though. And I do a lot of dibbling, so it was worth keeping them.
4 It should probably also be noted that I have never experienced, or heard of anyone experiencing, bamboo stakes on a plant kept indoors leading to "hives" of insects of any kind, nor any insects at all, as the ad copy on the Ultimate Plant Stakes suggests.
5 The Asplundia is sort of an impossible case all around -- the part of the stem at the soil line is fairly narrow and weak, so the plant is both top-heavy and unstable. It's also difficult to get stakes very close to the stem, because the leaves are so broad and numerous that it's impossible to place a stake anywhere without it poking through a leaf. It still has a slight lean, and required two of the Ultimate Plant Stakes to get that far, but this is the most verticality it's managed in years.


6 Though it should probably be noted that stakes which are extended in this way don't stand up well in 16 mph (kph) winds with gusts of 25 mph (kph), as I discovered while trying to get a photo of the Ficus lyrata for this post. This is probably not relevant to you, since you probably don't have 16 mph winds in your home (or if you do, you probably have bigger worries than keeping your houseplants upright), but it may be relevant if you're trying to stake something outdoors.